440

July 27, 2009
Life is not easy when you believe in good and bad luck. Whenever something more important needs to be done (getting married, building a house, even a small renovation) a fortune teller will be consulted and he will give the correct date to do it or to start it.
In this case the date was today. However, the builders didn't really have time today, so all they did was a bit of hammering on this wall and that was it. Wednesday the real work will start.

447

July 20, 2009
Considering the way bus drivers drive it may be the best thing to do.

449

July 18, 2009
Ready for the night.

455

July 12, 2009
Heavy rain, thunder and lightning. Getting out of the pool is no option.

460

July 7, 2009
Deep cleaning?

463

July 4, 2009
The streets of Hanoi have frequent parades of cycling advertisements.

467

June 30, 2009
Today was the last day of "Dance out of my paper", a solo exhibition of Noëlla Roos at Bui Gallery. This photo captures some drawings and a film projected on the wall. In the film you can see a dancing model and Noëlla, translating the dancer's movements into drawings.

470

June 27, 2009
Back from the market, ready to be boiled and chopped to pieces. The result is chewy chicken with many bone splinters. Loved by the whole nation, hated by many westerners.

479

June 18, 2009
Hanoi 2009: clothes shop, shoe shop, hairdresser, hairdresser, clothes shop, clothes shop. Good morning Vietnam.

480

June 17, 2009
Motion.

485

June 12, 2009
Cleaning up Hoan Kiem lake is a rare sight. Two men quickly going around it is not going to help much.

487

June 10, 2009
Power failures and power cuts are very common in Hanoi. Often it is the latter, as Hanoi (and Vietnam in general) can't cope with higher demands of these days.

500

May 28, 2009
From 1000 to 500 and from 500 to 0. It feels like the speed is the same as this grasshopper. Slowly on the way to wherever the cables are going.

504

May 24, 2009
The annual Hanoi Futsal Tournament means a lot of legs going after a single ball.

507

May 21, 2009
Hanoi's skyline won't make a lasting impression. It may take a few decades before that will happen.

513

May 15, 2009
Playing cards, smoking.............
Vietnam's older generation can do this all day long, especially playing cards. Day after day after day.

515

May 13, 2009
20 seconds of traffic, of spaghetti in the dark.

519

09-05-2009
Orange Carers is in Vietnam for a second time with a fundraiser for agent orange victims. Currently they are in Hanoi while crossing the entire country by motorbike.

520

May 08,2009
Heavy rain always results in flooding of big parts of the Gia Lam side of Hanoi.

523

May 05, 2009
Adding art work to a frame and being observed by a fully equipped bystander.

524

May 04, 2009
Taxi - motorbike - accident - police - waiting.
Where is the victim?

537

April 21, 2009
Thanh Xuan Peace Village in Hanoi provides shelter and treatment for 136 children and young people.The aim of the village is to care for these children and help them integrate into society. Most of them are resident there, except for about 20 children who live nearby and travel daily. All have physical or learning difficulties, the majority due to the effects of Agent Orange-dioxin poisoning.

Activities include rehabilitation (physiotherapy, acupuncture, linguistic therapy and other means of treatment), nursing, education and training of some simple jobs like sewing, embroidery and maybe 537 other things.

540

April 18, 2009
Fruit vendors sell their stuff anywhere they can. 540 items to go and this woman can go home.

541

April 17, 2009
These youngsters try to impress each other by repeatedly doing wheelies. They want to go as high as possible and of course helmets are for sissies. After 541 times they had enough of it (or they ran out of petrol).
This remote road is pretty quiet, but you can see this in traffic infested downtown Hanoi as well.

543

April 15, 2009
If you want to go shopping in Hanoi don't be surprised when the customers park their motorbike inside the shop. Usually when it is prohibited to park on the sidewalk. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to enter, when 543 motorbikes block the entire entrance. Once inside it may also be difficult to buy something, as that item you need is out of reach because a motorbike is standing there.

552

April 6, 2009
Although it's evening, with a fair amount of customers, there is no reason not to use a jackhammer. Why wait till tomorrow when you can do it now?
It feels like 552 decibel.

554

April 4, 2009
Not the usual "Cat Be Tong" writings on the wall. Graffiti is on the increase in Hanoi. Still, I bet there are less than 554 drawings.

555

April 03, 2009
On December 15, 2007 the helmet law was introduced. The street views changed overnight as suddenly nearly everybody was wearing helmets. All of them already had a helmet the day or days before, yet virtually no one was wearing one till that very day.
The streets of Hanoi were infested by police, who fined everybody they could catch. In the following weeks newspapers reported a drastic reduce of head trauma. But the news which caught my eye was quite different. Only ten days after the introduction of the law, it was reported that this law does not apply to children under 14.

Why?

There were complaints from parents, who said it was painful for children to wear helmets. This was backed up by various hospital directors. As if smashing their heads into asphalt is less painful and nothing to worry about.
So not many children are wearing a helmet. Sometimes I pass an accident scene where a child is crying or screaming and I wonder how this can be possible. Why children are not protected. It takes just one look at the traffic to see it is not safe to be out there with so many who think there are no rules and drive whenever and wherever they want at 555 kilometres per hour.

558

March 31, 2009
The Red River is struggling. The island in the middle is now connected to the "main land". Instead of boats there are now playing children and a lone photographer looking for some shots. 5:58PM is when this photo was taken.

561

March 28, 2009
There is only one queue in Vietnam. Everywhere else everybody fights to be served first, in front of the Mausoleum there is something very un-Vietnamese. If there would be any attempt for forming a second queue, it would be dwarfed by the size of the original.
Here, people are waiting to enter the Mausoleum, where the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh is on display. Several months before his death on September 2, 1969, he wished to be cremated and his ashes buried in three urns on three different hilltops of Vietnam (the North, Central and South areas). Similarly to the requests of other communist leaders this wish was not respected. In Vietnam he has an almost god-like status, yet they did not do what he requested. You ask one thing and you will get something completely different. Still very true these days.
There are exactly 561 people in this queue.

563

March 26, 2009
The Vietnamese treat illness as if they are fighting a war. Even for a simple cold a pharmacy prescribes a whole assortment of different pills. This selection needs to be swallowed three times a day. If you survive there is always another day.
Needless to say, this reduces the immune system and when you really need medicine it will be more difficult to get cured.
563 pills a day keeps the doctor away.

568

March 14, 2009
Masks are very common in the streets of Hanoi, due to air pollution. Hanoi's air is a foul mixture of all sorts of evil stuff you don't want in your body. Petrol fumes, smoke and dust are just a few. When looking around it seems an almost impossible task to turn things around and make the city more liveable.
Until then there are masks, even while waiting for a bus. An air sample could contain 568 different kinds of poison.

572

March 17, 2009
Rush hour is when you don't want to be out there, in the midst of the maelstrom. An endless stream of motorbikes washes through the main streets and those who think they can find a more quiet street all go into the same narrow alley. It seems the perpetual overdose of noise numbs the brains and make everybody do the same. Just one lane down the road there was nearly no traffic.
There are exactly 572 vehicles in this photo. A normal day in Hanoi.

573

March 16, 2009
When living in the tropics or sub-tropics you get used to the omnipresent gecko. For them it's very easy to find their way into the houses of Hanoi. It's not exactly warm yet, but they refuse to migrate to warmer regions and then come back when the heat sinks in.
Speaking of sinks, that is exactly where I found this little fellow. When he jumped into a bowl I completely lost my attention and sort of ignored the presence of my girlfriend. I may be in trouble, but I got some interesting shots.
I sometimes wonder about the gecko population in our house. 573?

574

March 15, 2009
Wherever you go, there are dogs. Especially in the alleys and more rural areas of Hanoi. Every time you pass a house you can expect a few dogs to storm at the gate or at you. Usually they just make a lot of noise, but I know one friend got bitten.
A part of the reason is security, as theft is a very big problem in Hanoi (and the whole of Vietnam). Even so big they may steal the dog which is supposed to protect you, as has happened once when I spent the night with Vietnamese family.
Maybe one very big dog of 574 kilos could handle all problems.

575

March 14, 2009
Ancestor worship plays a serious role in Vietnamese society. As an outsider I sometimes believe you earn much more respect when you are dead. Prior to western influence in Vietnam, traditionally people did not celebrate birthdays. The death anniversary of a loved one, however, was (and is) always an occasion of much more importance.
Duties at an ancestors' grave include the burning of incense and cutting the weed. I doubt whether papier-mâché helmets are already in the assortment of items to be burned and "transferred" to the ancestors.
At this cemetary, on the banks of the Song Hong river, are at least 575 other graves.

576

March 13, 2009
Mapping Invisible Cities is a project of German photographer Peter Bialobrzeski. In the past year he spent one month in each of the cities Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Manila, Singapore and Hanoi with the purpose to capture daily life, especially the elements we tend to overlook. Often the familiar and the unseen are captured within one image.
Together with 26 local photographers he is exhibiting a total of 96 photos in all six cities. Today was the opening of the Hanoi exhibition, which will run until March 23. It is at Goethe-Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc.
In this image one of the Hanoi photographers, Dam Duc Vu, is being interviewed by 576 women, or so it seems.

582

Saturday March 07
Nothing is straight, nothing hangs straight.
There must be a law of physics here, but I can't think of which one. Wherever you go, whatever is hanging on a wall, it doesn't hang level. Sometimes a whole wall is plastered with all kinds of frames, each pointing in a different direction.
It may be all part of a bigger plan, which says it's okay when it is almost right.
I bet there are at least 582 ways of hanging something level.

583

March 6, 2009
Often you will notice someone burning pieces of paper or paper objects. They are burned in ancestor worship ceremonies which can take place anywhere.
In order to ensure that ancestors have possessions in the afterlife, their relatives send them paper and papier-mâché presents. By burning the spirit money and paper objects they will be transferred to the ancestors.
Objects include paper passports, flight-, rail- and bus tickets, telephones, TVs, paper credit cards, rice cookers, anything really.
This barrel could contain 583 items, but probably there are less.

584

March 05, 2009
Every day at Tran Thanh Tong street, about 200 metres south of Tran Hung Dao, it is table tennis mayhem. It is a very popular venue for the Vietnamese and on some days there is a bunch of foreigners who meet. Every Monday night (7 to 9) and since today also on Thursday afternoon (4 to 6). It is dirt cheap and if you get tired of hitting the same ball over and over again there are plenty of pool tables. Just show up and play. Again a photo in colour because the orange ball comes out a bit better. It may take two players about 584 times to hit the ball to complete a match.

585

March 04, 2009
Some subjects are just screaming not to be shown in black and white. This is one of them. In many Hanoi streets there is a lot of digging going on and this is to do something about the cable salad, the zillions of cables which beautify every street.
If each colour can handle 585 cables it is a good start.

591

February 26, 2009
One of the hassles of exiting a bus is dealing with the hordes of entrepreneurs who want to offer further transportation. This group of people storms at every stopping bus, shouting and waving. They are not very successful, so the whole process repeats itself at least 591 times per day.

597

February 20, 2009
In some places in Hanoi the forthcoming 1000 year anniversary is visible. The wall of the dyke road is being transformed into "The Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural". It is an idea of painter- journalist Nguyen Thu Thuy – a member of Vietnam Fine Art Association.
As can be read at www.artaction.com:
"The project will transform 6 kilometers of the grey concrete Red River dyke structure into a ceramic mosaic mural. This mural will be made into four parts which respectively show the motifs and images of the Vietnamese traditional culture, the Vietnamese contemporary arts, artworks of international artists, and Vietnamese children’s paintings. The project will encourage the involvement of local communities, providing them with artistic skills and the inspiration to beautify their living areas. The project ultimately aims to encourage and enhance the responsibilities of local residents to improve their own living environment, raise their voice and become actively involved in the urban planning process."

597 days to go till the completion of phase 1. The project duration is 3 years. Later a more beautiful part of the wall will be in colour.

598

February 19, 2009
Part two of wearing helmets indoors. First I was too late to capture this scene full frontal and then I decided to respect their privacy. In a hospital when an old man is staggering, helped by two men, one of the last things to expect is that they are both wearing a helmet. If anyone should be protected it is patient, not them.
598 could be the amount of cigarette buts I saw on the corridor floors. Yes, in a hospital.

599

February 18, 2009
The helmet law, introduced in December 2007, has made a big impact on Vietnam. I wouldn’t say that is because everybody is wearing a helmet now (quite the contrary, especially in rural areas), it is when they are wearing one. Helmets have become a fashion and for Vietnamese it is quite normal to walk around while wearing one. Even in shops, shopping malls (not to mention at rock concerts!) many don’t bother to take off their helmet and feel more comfortable.
The days of the conical hats are numbered! (599?)

602

February 15, 2009
The start of the Valentine 10K run, organised by the Red River Road Runners.
Usually they have a run every week and occasionally there is a special run, such as a marathon, a half marathon and in this case "just" ten kilometres. Running goes a bit faster than at the Hash House Harriers and it is for the more serious runners. Also, they always run in Hanoi, so it won’t cost you a lot of time (unless you even use a motorbike for 20 metre trips and are suffering from a chronical lack of fitness).
Maybe one day you could wear number 602.

610

February 7, 2009
In Hanoi it is not difficult to get somewhere. There is a huge fleet of motorbike taxis, called Xe Oms. Xe Om literally means "moto hug". You hop onto it and you will be taken to your destination at a modest price (bargain first!). Xe oms can be found anywhere, especially at street corners. As a foreigner you don’t find them, they find you! I bet you will hear "motorbike" more often than "hello" or anything else.
If you need one, first make sure you don’t smell any alcohol. Actually I can give a whole list of safety issues, including "don’t ever take a xe om". Maybe the best idea to avoid stress during the ride is to close your eyes and slowly count to 610. A good chance you will be at your destination once you hit 0.

612

February 5, 2009
In case you're thinking I'm making this all up, on the north side of Hoan Kiem lake is another countdown. It is much more fancy and expensive than mine and it is in two languages. If you don't speak English or Vietnamese I guess you will have to wait until the number reaches 0 to find out what's going on.
Don't wait in front of the display though, as every day you will be told 612 times you can't stand there, or anywhere else you move to.

614

February 3, 2009
Drinking beer is a favourite pastime anywhere in the world. In Hanoi are a lot of very good bargains and one place is very popular amongst travellers. It is known as "Bia Hoi corner". A bia hoi is where locals sit down together, drink cheap beer and eat some food. Some of them can cater for a few hundred people and some are busy when there are only ten.
Bia Hoi corner must be mentioned in the guidebooks, as many travellers find their way to there. Actually there are few on that corner. This one charges VND 3,000 for a beer, which is 17 dollar cents or 13 euro cents.
Conveniently located in the old quarter it is within short distance of a lot of hotels and guest houses. For one dollar you can buy 6,14 beers. In many other counties it is the other way around. Actually, at a few places in Hanoi too :)

615

February 2, 2009
Traffic lights play an important role in regulating traffic. One would suspect that they should be visible at all times. Not in Hanoi.
A large amount of traffic lights is hidden behind trees, leaves, banners, signs and whatever else is tall or big enough to keep them out of sight. The light in this photo is red, but it can only be seen on the very last moment. This is not even the worst example.

There are more typical traffic situations in this photo. The white car is not coming from the left, it is just standing there, having a short break in an attempt to turn around. Also, a few are ignoring the red light on the other side (as many do) and some think there is no such thing as a helmet law.

One really weird thing: there is no one on this side of the traffic light. In traffic infested Hanoi you would expect at least 615 motorbikes waiting there.